NEW: 1998 QuickSilver Hard Top 6sp GT28s 720HP 720TQ See SPEC Page

SOLD: 1997 Limited Edition Toyota Supra Twin Turbo

1) Listed below in order of Turbo-Fuel-Engine builds/Mods

2) Cooling

3) OEM Stereo Upgrade

4) LED Interior Upgrades

June 2016

NWMotive Drag record with Slicks

September 2015

August 2015

Shift Sector Trophy

September 2014

NEW 1998 QS HT 6SP

See gallery Page

July 2013

IMSCC 2013 – Northwest Import Street Car Competition – Seattle, WA.

I was even more fortunate to actually WIN the event! Thanks IMSCC-Matt

Victory Picture at Ishii Motors

video trailer promoting the event.

my personal Interview for this event.

See Interview

January 2013

Finally finished pump gas tune with full 4D mapping, Now I can run any levels of Ethanol from 0 to 100% and the Vipec with make changes real time. No additional tuning required, Pretty surprised to see nearly 550whp at 24psi with 92 octane.

June 2012

Summer of 2012 the fuel system was upgraded. We had to go to ID2000 injectors and 2 new Walbro 400LPH-E85 compatible pumps. We had enough fuel, but IDC was over 100%. Also changed the fittings in the fuel tank.

August 2010 Fuel System

Finally had to fess up and install a upgraded Fuel System. I ran for 2 years with a Kenny Bell Boost-A-Pump to decrease the Injector Duty. It worked, gave me about 5%. Enough to keep it a bit more safe at 95% vrs 100%. This was prior to the GT28 installation. So out came the BAP and in came the full fuel upgrade. I decided on Injector Dynamics ID1000s, FIC fuel rail. Pre-made Parker Teflon -6AN lines. 2 new Denzo 950-0155 (stock) fuel pumps.

I also removed all the pins from all the connectors and made new wires and new pins. So the Pigtail from the fuel tank top connector to the BP1 connector are all new. I did not want to cut and splice for the 2nd fuel pump. I wanted the +12v wires to be red. I did the same thing inside the fuel hanger/canister. You can see this in the last 3 pictures.

The wiring and theory is unique to most set-ups. The stock FP ECU is controlled by the car’s main computer. Main purpose is to only run the fuel pumps when the engine is actually running. A Major safety thing. The other function of the ECU to FP ECU is running the FP at 9v up to 4000 rpms, then 12v above. This is done by the main ECU sending a 2v signal to the FP ECU telling it to pump out only 9v up to 4000 rpms. The the main ECU sends a 4v signal to the FP ECU to raise the voltage output to 12v above 4000 rpms. So I built a electronic circuit board using a “comparator” integrated circuit tapping off the ECU 2v to 4v signal. The function is to have a “reference voltage” to one side (I used 3v). When the input voltage is less than 3v, the circuit remains inactive (running stock 9v operation). But when the output voltage goes to 4v, it fires the circuit on, which then turns on a 40A relay. This relay then sends 12v to my new 2nd fuel pump. The basics here is that I am running on 1 stock fuel pump, totally stock in form from FP to the filter under 4000 rpms. Above 4000 rpms, the 2nd fuel pump is brought on-line to supply the extra fuel pressure needed under heavy loads. This serves a dual purpose. One, the 2nd FP is never running unless I am under boost or load. So things are quieter. Two, it is safer not having the 2nd FP running. Three, the car runs better because it is running at 9v which isn’t overpowering by increased fuel flow.

Injectors and final hose routing/installation is not finished. Will post when finished. When all done, I will install the Vipec, and a GM flex fuel sensor and convert to E85. Which is the driving force for this larger than normal fuel system upgrade.

Previous installation was using a BAP (Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump) Although it did a good job reducing my injector duty, it did’nt do well enough. (I think it dropped maybe 6-10% overall) I used a triggering method off the stock FP ECU. When the FP ECU received the 4.0v trigger signal at 4000 rpms, it triggered the BAP to boost up the FP voltage to 16v. This way it wasnt running at full 16v unless I was over 4000rpms. Below that, car ran stock at 9.0v.

Here was the schematic layout I used.

January 2010

New custom manifold will soon be available, but not recommended unless additional mods are done. Since these turbo’s have the possibility for 600whp fuel systems are required. If the goal is 500-525 whp, then fueling may not be needed and definitely not the manifold. Production is slow. I am having difficulties trying to get these sand casted. All the 3D CAD models are done. Here are a few pics of how it will look.

CAD Model

3D Model

August 2010

Finally, I have installed my own set of GT28’s. I have additional pictures coming shortly. I have not been able to tune the car because of the weather. I have new Saard style 650cc injectors, Aeromotive FPR, and modified fuel rail. I had issues with oil leaks coming off the new turbo’s supply and drain lines due to defective parts. But all is fixed. I am still having a custom exhaust manifold built which should be near spring 2010. The car feels about 30% stronger over the first set of US Upgrades. I am hoping to get close to 600whp on 101 fuel. I should be able to get close to 30psi with my custom adjustable wastegate spring.

In addition, I have installed a custom circuitry that changes the FP voltage to 16v at 4000rpms. It reads the 9v-12v signal the stock ECU sends to the fuel pump and when it triggers to 12v, it kicks in a secondary voltage supply. This should do the trick as opposed to adding a 2nd fuel pump. Good thing about this is it runs a 9v up to 4000 rpms. So it stays quite. I have noticed this reduces the injector duty cycle by about 7%,
Last new electronic addition is my newly designed “pre-transition” boost controller. It connects to the ECU via MAP wire and intercepts the feed to the EBV VSV. It reads the MAP boost voltage and when it reaches a pre-set level, it closes and allows for prespool. Somewhat of an electronic boost level controller device. Range for pre-transition boost is from stock at around 10psi up to about 1- Bar, or just under 15psi. This is a better method than the manual boost controller, plus the ease of in car adjustment.

New~! January 2008

I finally received the long awaited set of Hybrid GT28R non-ball bearing turbo’s from BNR. The design and workmanship is superior. A lot of work went into these to provide a unique style and design. They are VSR balanced to 150,000rpm (24psi) and have the capability to achieve 30 psi with the right mods. There compressor map is very similar to a GT28RS. They will install totally OEM with only a few modifications like cutting the rubber couplers 3/8″ and notching the heat shield a little for the oil inlet. They will be sequential if desired. More later when installed~!

(Working on the oil and water line kit right now.)

May 30, 2008

GT28 Twin Turbo Conversion is Here~! Now for sale.

CLICK HERE— To Purchase this Kit at “Speedforsale”

NEW-Beta testing GT28R-CT12 Conversion Sequential System July 2007.

PDF view of Turbos by BNR —GT28R’s

Picture PDF of the new turbo’s —- 10MB 14 high res pictures

Install Kit write-up and instructions—- 2MB

For detailed pictures of the differences between a US and a JDM turbo section, click HERE for a .pdf

Garrett Compressor Map for GT2860R

New Engine Specs and related Modifications

Following are Pics of my latest Cooling Ideas

Oil Cooler/Power Steering install

I finally got around re-configuring my Power Steering cooler (required after 3-Row install) so I could incorporate a 19-Row Oil cooler. So I came up with a “V”-Mount approach. I tested it today at a HPDE and my oil temps are now around 200-210 on a 78 degree day, 2 weeks ago I was getting real close to 230 degrees and decided it was time to install this thing.


To buy your parts:

You will need the following:

This gives you the complete Oil Bypass/Oil Cooler Temp-a-Cure System

Total with shipping is about $400


The theory of this install was to use the OEM amp to run the Subwoofer only. The new radio is a Nakamichi CD500 with a built in 50W amp per channel. This is a MP3 player. It has RCA outs, and has 10 different illumination themes. I have chosen *green/green* as being closed to OEM. We have used all integration harnesses purchased on Ebay for about $50 total for all 3. These are used to have the entire system plug and play, no wire cutting whatsoever. We also installed better door and rear speakers. We however kept the OEM subwoofer. This unit sounds extremely awesome. The windows and mirrors actually vibrate from all of the bass. The entire cost for this systems with radio and speakers is approx $700. I want to thank Steve Ishii for all of his help on the wiring diagrams, and Wes for his awesome job in the speaker fabrications.

Note that all car stereo wiring colors are universal. New HUs will have the same colors for speakers and power as any aftermarket harness’s. The main purpose of the 10pin and 6pin (male and female) is to make use of the IH1 and IH2 in car wiring “hub”. The 10pin and 6pin are inserted “in-line” to these in order to pass through the speaker wire, amp turn on wire, and antenna. The 10pin and 6pin plug pigtails are ties together and wired into the new HU speaker and power amp turn-on.

In Car picture of new Radio (Includes picture of New MMD i-Color and Race-logic locations as well)

Wiring 10pin/6pin Layout

(Note: 2011 the radio above has been replaced with a Pioneer AVH-P4300DVD. I needed a larger unit to facilitate the new HKS Camp2 display. HERE is a picture of what it looks like below the converted HVAC.

NEW LED conversion to the Climate control assembly-See Gallery for more pictures


Most of the below has been upgraded and improved over the years. Please visit my See my FB page – (for all the new stuff/designs.)

I have spent a couple of years trying to find the best way to do conversions. The soldering of one at a time style wasn’t working for me. So I designed circuit boards for the upper and lower button backlighting, the temp dial, and fan speed dial. This created a much better uniformity of lighting and offered an updated look compared to the dismal green oem appearance. No more “bare” LED legs to mess with. Also gives a higher degree of longevity. There is still more work involved than just the circuit boards. Here is a pdf description of the installation process. There are pictures of a finished unit in the Gallery. I will post more later.


LED Conversion Installation

Finished A/C Unit

New Style Blue Fan area

Here are a few pictures of the boards outside the unit.

For more information about the internal circuitry of the AC unit, This Diagram shows where things are and what values of components. This Diagram is for voltage testing. For Info on part #s for button replacement and knob replacement, plus the standard color’s schemes I do, click HERE.

Any color scheme is available for buttons and Indicators. All 5 circuit boards are pre-tested for uniformity in illumination. The onboard Zener needs replacing from the normal 3.9 or 4.6v to a 5.6v. Otherwise when the headlights are turned on the indicators pretty much disappear.

NEW LED conversion for Speedometer Cluster

I had originally installed the basic #194 and #74 LED bulbs into the stock bulb sockets which did an initial job, but it wasn’t perfect: like here which looks like this. This is what the cluster looked like after installing just the LED drop ins. It still had some greenish hue. I found out that Toyota puts a coating on the back of the gauge faces. After a year, I decided to take the whole assembly apart and line the inside with NLFS Cool White thin strips LEDs. This is what they look like inside. Here is the wiring from the back. I ran all the 12V and ground thru the vents and tied then together. The I ran just 1 red wire for the + and 1 black wire for the -. The green copper paths are very thin and canbe scraped away to expose bare copper for a solder pad. I used 26 ga wire. I installed all the LED strips onto the Illumination circuit paths. Or what controls the stock bulb sockets. These do dim quite well with the stock rheostat.

But this still left inconsistent lighting because of the coatings on the back of the gauge faces. So the next step, which took me forever to decide, was remove all the needles and take all the gauge faces off and sand the coatings off. But….before I did this, I needed to find away to re-install the needles in there correct position. So I built a cheap 555 timer circuit. A 555 timer circuit is a very simple $10 thing. Just a single 555 chip, and a few passive parts. You can get all at a Radio Shack. I used this design . You will note that I wrote specific resistance values associated with the RPM or SPEED in case you don’t have a scope. Although a decent Voltmeter can read frequency, which is all you need to verify needle positions.

So with this, I connected the 555 timer to the pins of the gauges and marked where they were based on the imputed frequency. Pretty much all 6 cyl engines put out 50HZ per 1000RPMs and 11HZ per 10MPH. Once I had the needles positioned I noted the specific resistance so later i wouldn’t need the potentiometer.(R2). For the Coolant, that just uses a resistance. So I found that a 220 ohm resistor put the needle dean on the low temp tick mark as shown here. The fuel was simple, just fill the car up totally full and replace the needle at the full position. Now, knowing exactly how the gauges work. All of the gauges have a 12v+ and Ground. They all have a 3rd connection. That is what I call the “source signal”. Which for the Tach, is the Igniter, speedometer is speed sensor, fuel is the in-tank “sender” and the coolant, well it is the coolant sensor on the engine block. All of these are found on the back of the cluster. Here is the back of the cluster showing the specific pin-outs. The Power and Ground for all the gauges is pins # B 7 & 9. The “source signal” comes from harness B for Fuel, Coolant, and Tach and Harness A for Speed.

This schematic will somewhat help if you can read it. Note where to put the 220 ohm resistor for the temp gauge.
So the next step after removing everthing is to sand off the crap on the back of all the gauges. I followed the directions from another SF member and sanded with 600 wet/dry then 1000 wet/dry to uncover the numbers. Prior to sanding, you cannot see any of the face numbers since they are hidden by this coating.

Here is what they look like after sanding.

So I finish this whole retro, install everything, calibrate the needles and it is WAY to bright. Easy fix, I install a 100 ohm resistor to the power feed to the back of the cluster. But, even though it looks fantastic, the red needles damn near disappear. So I am forced to take everything back apart and install custom made red LED needle brightners. This is pain staking to say the least.

Red Needle recepticle (-Obsolete-Replaced with NEW Circuit Boards

Installed onto plastic Diffuser (- Replaced with above Micro Circuit Boards

Back Side Wiring (- Notice sanded backs removing light film blocker

Front w/o the needle (- You can see the 3 Micro Red LEDs shining through.

So HERE is the new cluster with LED strips with OUT the red needles accentuated.

This HERE is “after” the red needles done. Now the cluster looks like a new 21st Century dash~!

New In-car CLUSTER and HVAC Pictures. Notice the Silver HVAC overlays.

December 2007

Completed LED Conversion faq’s and pics See Gallery for 3 new LED installs.
June 2009 I have designed circuit boards for the button rows and for the Temp Dial, and for the Fan control inner lights. Even put a LED in the Knob. See this new picture of this Here.

Hopefully, I can sell these as “kits”…more details later. Here is what they look like.